Monday, September 6, 2010

Rock 'n' Road Weekend

What started out as a one day hiking trip to Blue Mounds State Park ended up being a two day trip to Mt. Rushmore and back.  The spontaneous trip brought us straight through South Dakota, and into Wyoming.  We had no intentions on going to Wyoming, but we needed a place to crash, and rooms in Rapid City were full all the way through to Gillette, Wyoming.  After ten hours sitting in the car, spending the night sleeping in the car just didn't sound appealing.  We opted for the extra 1.5 hours for a comfy bed and renewed excitement.
I am not sure why we decided to go, but it could be in part to the disappointment we felt after seeing that Blue Mounds State Park was mostly prairie land, and the bison were fenced in 500 acres of land where they all stayed in a cluster in the middle of the land.  So, we could only see them from very very far away.  Then, we finally found the red cliffs of the park, and were more satisfied, but still unsettled.  The whole time at the park, we could hear traffic on 75 and at the highest points we could see traffic passing on the road.  The park is small, and after walking 4 miles on a short trail, we really were not interested in seeing anymore of the park.  What started out as a joke about going the extra six hours to Mt. Rushmore became more appealing, and though we did not have anything packed, we decided to go anyway.
There are a lot of ghost towns on the way to Mt. Rushmore.  There was one right outside of Murad that I'd like to visit some time just to take pictures.  Other places that I'd like to see and/or spend more time at are; I'd plan a day for Black Hills, a day for Jewel Cave, a day for Mt. Rushmore and Keystone, and a day for the Bad Lands.  I would stop by the Missouri River, and when going 16 SE from Gillette to Mt. Rushmore, I would take the Buffalo trail. 
Over all, the trip was great!!!  It's easy to travel when you're with like minded people, and everyone is laid back.  I would definitely do a trip through SD again.  

Monday, August 30, 2010

Life is a Fair

Went to the great All-Minnesotan get together this weekend for a few hours.  I hadn't been to the MN State Fair since 2006, maybe.  Everything is mostly the same except not as many extreme rides as they use to have.  I want to try the free fall one if it ever comes back. 
I made it a point to try new foods instead of just eating the normal which are Ms. Fields cookies, fries and cheese curds.  This year I ate swedish eggs, bacon on a stick and pronto pup.  I really wanted cheese curds and a footlong corndog, but I was so tired that I left without eating everything I wanted to.

The Fine Arts building was an awesome exhibit.  We also looked at the cattle barns and listened to some Tim McGraw.  Overall, four hours at the fair is really not enough time to do everything.  Ideally, it would be nice to go all day, but have a long break/nap in the afternoon. 

Thinking about planning an adventure for labor day weekend.  what to do?  Contemplating between Devil's Kettle and Blue Mounds State Park.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Ponemah Revisited

The way I see it is that I, and my family as well as anyone whose ancestors aren’t natives of America, were given a great opportunity to live in America. My family moved here to flee oppression, and chase a dream of freedom and chance. After visiting Ponemah, I have to wonder how distressing it would be to be shuffled around, and eventually allotted small plots of territory to set up your own rules and laws within a larger society that is so tempting. I mean, almost all the poorest towns in the US are Native American reservations, and the people who live there seem comfortable and happy, but to live with such limited opportunity, when the opportunity for progress is just a drive away must be conflictual. Yet, to leave one’s reservation would feel something like treason, and to stay is what Oprah would call social determinance.

Ponemah sits on the very boot of land protruding into Red Lake. Sure, the scenery is idyllic, but there is no industry in Ponemah. Even if the people receive some kind of government funds or reparations, it’s only enough to last from hand to mouth. You’d have to leave the reservation to really get beyond the dangling carrot, and even then, you face the worse sorts of social stigma. I do not think that the community is doomed, but it is clearer to me that we are all faced with unique challenges. Sometimes, overcoming them is never easy or forgiving.

Maybe that’s what I sought after: to find a place that physically represents what I sometimes feel inside.

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Thinking On

I am glad I went up to see Ponemah, and came across a number of towns that are now on my radar to stop in.  Ponemah was a test on my bigger idea of visiting the ten poorest towns in the United States.  Although Ponemah proved that there really isn't much to be scared about, there are a few things that are lingering on my mind.
  1. I realize that the cultures of the people living in these small towns may be significantly different than in usual places (esp. if they're on reservations).  I don't know how I want to approach the idea of ethnic culture.  I don't know if i want to get into culture.
  2. It may not be safe to go to these small - kind of backwoods- towns by myself.  Also, no one to take pictures of me in the town.  :) 
  3. I still have no angle, which I need to have before I make plans to go visit the other towns.  I have to think hard about my trip to Ponemah.
  4. Contemplating travel writing, start in MN.  
It may be another month before I go visit the next city, which I think is in South Dakota.  In the mean time, I might do local trips and do some travel writing.  I like it!

HWY 371

There is a road along Hwy 371 in Baxter called Woman Lake Road.  I was tempted to turn down that gravel road, but I stayed on my course toward Ponemah, the poorest town in Minnesota.  In all my twenty nine years, I had not come up this way.  Up north, to me, had always been Duluth and Lutsen which are towns along Lake Superior; a lake so large and overwhelmingly enchanting.  The lakes up in the Northwest, Gull Lake, Hole in the Day Lake, Nisswa Lake and Leech Lake to name a few, are smaller, more manageable and charming.  The towns that resides around the lakes, such as Baxter, Brainerd, Nisswa, Pequot and Walker, are quaint towns and kept in a way that tourists feel like they've come across an enchantment - some twilight zone that has warped back to the 1950's bringing along all modern technology. 
In Baxter, (at this time roughly 11:30am) cars purposfully turned here and there into gas stations, liquor stores, marinas, resort entrances, private lakeshore cabins, public acess boat docks and bar & grills.  Small shops lined the eastern side of the road - Baxter Small Engines, The Shimer shack, Second Look Treasures, Rumors Bar, Ultimate Liquors, Wliderness Coffee and a slew of cleverly named establishments.  I stopped at a familiar establishment, Super America, to refuel the car and use the ladies' room. 
I'm not sure if it was my own excitement for the trip, or if this is the usual energy in Baxter, but it was certainly upbeat.  People boasted about the good weather, and with smiles on their faces drove off with their boats hitched to their pickups.  The sun shined tirelessly in Baxter, gas station attendents were friendly, people waved to each other from across the parking lot, and children don't cry in Baxter.  There is just too much to do, and most importantly, the Lake awaits.  The excitement in the air was electric as if I had drove into some sort of Brigadoon, and at any moment, the people would break out in song and dance.
I got in my car and drove on North along HWY 371.  As I left Baxter, a person dressed in a Smokey the Bear costume stood along side the road waving as people exited the city.
Me and La Mochela before setting out
The next town coming up was Brainerd.  There is about fifteen to twenty minutes of wilderness between the towns.  Little antique shops scattered a long the way too, but nothing really worth stopping for.  One would have to exit HWY 371 to go to the Brainerd business district.  I chose not to exit.  Eventually, however, the sides of 371 were littered with gas stations, fast food restaurants, liquor stores and billboard advertisments for the local resorts.  The short quarter mile of shops ended with a Westside liquor store, and a big sign that read "Craguns Resort" with a big arrow pointing down a winding road.  I had always wanted to see that resort, but no time for it today.  Brainerd did not interest me very much, but it may be because I didn't drive through the Brainerd business district.
Brainerd is quickly followed up by Nisswa- a town on a wooded hill overlooking Nisswa Lake.  I immediately liked this town.  On my right,  I could see, through the shallow wilderness, that there was a small strip of shops along a small street.  Cars lined the street, and people walked gleefully back and forth at what seemed like a sidewalk sale.  On my left was, again, shallow woods, cabins, resort homes and Lake Nisswa.  The lake was beautiful and calming.  There were boats on the lake, and docked along shore.  The sight was charmingly picture perfect.  Unlike Baxter and Brainerd, Nisswa was somewhat hidden, giving me only glimpses through the shallow woods.  Nisswa had a mysterious and rustic charm to it, and I would like to actually spend a weekend in Nisswa on the lake and walking through town.
There was not much after Nisswa until I reached Pequot Lakes, which seemed slightly larger than Nisswa.  The center of Pequot Lakes had an Ace hardware, train station (non-operational I think), city hall and a line of shops that were further off which I couldn't quite see clearly from the road.  I think Pequot Lakes would be an interesting place to visit, but I was not swept away as I was with Nisswa, and as I would soon discover Walker to be. 
Walker, the city on the bay of Leech Lake, was mesmerizing.  I entered the city over a short bridge that ran through Shingobee Island.  If I hadn't read the sign, I wouldn't have even realized I was on an island.  Shingobee Island, which is part of Walker, is small and passes with a blink.  The road curves as it leaves the island down a hill.  As I came down the curve of US-2 (I had left HWY 371 at Northern Lights Casino), I beheld a sight that made me gasp and become wide eyed.  The city on the the lake.  The lake stretched out into the horizon, and in the far off distance, I could see green tree tops, but immediately before me was a city park, beach and town square. Imagine the charm of the town of Stillwater on a lake with boats docked about, people on the beach, dogs on the green and an old fashioned ice cream parlor followed by cute shops and cafes that are delightful to see.  I stopped for some pedestrians, and watched as people were busy about their sight seeing and recreation.  I wanted to park my car and go for a stroll, but decided that Walker will have to be another trip. 
Numerous small towns, that did not catch my attention, paraded between Walker and Ponemah (which I have written about below).

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Ponemah, MN

Mission Ponemah complete. 
Thankfully my car made it there and back again.  The drive was beautiful though long.  The car endured much better than me.  The last thirty miles home was struggle; I had to break out some power chow - apples.
My idea was to leave this morning at eight, but I didn't wake up until 8:30 am.  When I finally got ready, and went downstairs, there were issues that delayed my start.  Two hours later, I drove out of my driveway at exactly 10:32 am.  The morning was gloomy and fog laid amiss the fields of corn and soybean along County Road 50. Yet, I was not disheartened.  Actually, it felt like a good sign.  
Foggy morning in my front yard
My estimated time of arrival (ETA) was 4pm.  It would be 694, MN15, 371, US2, 71, Commant, Pioneer, County Road 104, 23 and Res18.  I drove through St. Cloud, Fort Ripley, Brainerd, Baxter, Nisswa, Pequot Lakes, Shingobee Island, Walker, Bemidji and finally arrived at Penomah roughly at 3:49pm.  The drive was long, but it was rewarding.  Res18 basically drove right through Penomah.  Then it looped right up to Red Lake and back again.  I was pleasantly surprised to see that I could see most of the lake as I drove along Res 18 and in Penomah.  The town is exceptionally small, as I had gathered.  I found myself amazed that everything centered around the road.  Houses branched off the main road into their cozy corners, and there was only one short strip of homes near the center of town. 
Ponemah welcome sign
When I got out of my car to take the picture of the welcome sign, it was stiffly quiet.  I could hear the gravel crunching under my feet as I walked from my car to get a good shot of the sign.  There was no wind or sound, and the sun beat down making the temperature stuffy  and hot.  There were no cars on the road, but a good amount of healthy fat crows that picked at some garbage laying wayside from a nearby dumpster.  However, with the sunny skies, I felt no worries though I was a bit anxious to finally see my destination even though there were no sound, no sight or smell that could give me any clue to what Ponemah was going to actually be like.
I drove another five miles on, and started seeing houses.  Small ramblers with worn out driveways.  Most of these homes had items scattered about the yards such as kid's toys, lawn chairs, old furniture and the usual stuff people no longer have use for in the home.  There were some houses that looked haggard, but most of the homes are well kept.  I drove on, and saw no people.  Only the lake accompanied me on the straight road.  Red Lake is large, beautiful and glistening blue.  The water was still as the air.
I drove on, and finally came upon a cluster of homes across from a baseball field and some circular outdoor arena, which I'm not certain what its used for.  Next to the wooden arena stood a plain and square building labeled Penomah Center.  Behind the center was a school, and next to the center was a fire department.  A very short block from the fire department was the gas station/market/laundromat.
I stopped in the market for a sandwich and ice tea.  I was starving by now, but more so, I hoped to chat with the attendant to get a feel for what the town is like, and attitude toward strangers.  The woman inside was very nice.  I asked her how to pronounce the name of their town and she said, "its Poneema."  My next question wasn't so slick.
"Its very quiet here.  Is the town safe?"
"Yeah," she said with trace of humor.
"Would you mind if I parked my car in your lot and took a walk around?"
"Oh, sure.  Go ahead."
I pulled my car around to the side of the market, and decided I'd walk over to look at the clinic, community center and possibly the school.  For the most part, the people were nice, but they probably don't get a lot of Asian girls walking around their small town which is tucked away in the corner of Beltrami County.  I got some lasting stares from two girls going into the laundromat, and people driving by in their cars turned to look at me.  I am not unfamiliar with getting second glances from small town residents as I know that outside of Minneapolis there aren't a lot of Asians.  Heck, even in Corcoran (my current city of over ten years) people some times stare. 
Residential area in center of Ponemah
At this point, I thought I'd let someone know I had made it to Ponemah.  I put on my backpack, and called a friend to let her know I made it to my destination just fine.  She was astounded to find out I had actually made the trip, and that my car made it that far.  I took a few pictures, but her warning me of cultural norms/expectations made me put my camera away.  She also suggested I check out the community center as I would probably be able to chat with someone there about the town.
I stopped over at Ponemah Center.  There were a few people that had just come out of the center and were standing outside the door:  a couple with three kids, a woman in a purple tie-die shirt and black denim and two young girls, possibly her daughters.
"Is this the community center?" I asked the couple.
Ponemah Clinic
"Yeah," answered the husband.
"Great," I said and walked in nonchallantly.
I walked into the building to find that it was quite small.  The bulk of the building was a gymnasium freshly mopped.  From the gymnasium was an entrance into a game room, and that was it.  There was not an office or a person inside.  So, I stepped back outside to where the people were waiting.
"Is there anyone working?"  I asked the couple.
"Not on the weekends," replied the older lady in the tie-die tee shirt.
"I was wondering why you went in there," said the man who answered me earlier.
"We just had a feast," added the woman in the tie-died shirt.
"Really?" I asked somewhat excitedly.  "What for?"
"A memorial," she replied.
"Oh, I'm sorry."
"We're waiting for someone to come and lock it up."
"Ok," I said lingering to see if anyone would ask me why I was there.
A short moment went by and no one said anything. Not to seem too odd, I said to the woman, "This is a nice town."
"Yeah," she said not completely convinced.
"It's very quiet and quaint.  I'm just driving through some small towns in Minnesota and saw Ponemah."
"Oh," she replied.  "If you go seven more miles [west] it'll just be a dead end at the lake."
"I guess I should turn back around then," I said.  "Where does that road lead?"
"That takes you out of the res and to Saum.  You been there?"
"No, I haven't yet."
Another few short moments pass.  The young couple just smile and look on.
"How long have you lived here?" I asked the woman.
"Ponemah is my home," she answered.
"Its so nice here, I can see why you'd make it home.  How many people are there in this town?"
"I don't know really," she answered.
At this point a car pulled up to the building, and a woman with larger bifocals came out of the car.
"Anyone come to lock up yet?"  she asked the tie-die shirt woman.
"Not yet."
"Well, thanks for your time," I said and walked back toward my car.
A few steps away I hear the newly arrived woman ask the tie-die shirt woman, "She lost?"
"Some thing like that," replied the other.
I got in my car and drove back the way I came.
In a way I felt a bit guilty like I was intruding on their lives though every person that I spoke to was very kind.  I couldn't help but feel as if I had no business being there, a feeling I've become all too familiar with.
Above Ground Burial Sites
Above Ground Burial Sites along main road
After stopping to take a few photos of Red Lake, I hit the road again.  As I drove along, I noticed that in front of some houses were wooden boxes with thatched tops like long little houses.  I also noticed that some were adorned with flowers, and some had other things such as empty bottles, toys, and remembrance-like objects, that were placed in front of them.  I wondered what they were, and realized (well, more like assumed) that these were burial sites.  Small clusters of above ground burial sites nestled amount trees in front of homes.  I'm not sure if these just happen to be burial grounds, or if its is customary for people to bury their loved ones in front of their homes.    I was amazed to learn something new (but of course, I wasn't certain).  I had never thought about different culture's burial rites and customs.  I only know a little about Christian burials and Hmong burials - and even then, I don't know the origins of it all.  I don't know if it has always been customary for Hmong people to bury their dead in the ground, or if that's something adopted in America.  And, I surely don't know anything about Native American burial rites or customs.  I'd have to google it, or ask a friend.
I drove on out of Ponemah back onto the bumpy gravel road that winded through open farmland and between a large red barn and Jensen's market, which was closed.  The gravel was extremely bumpy causing my car to shake and jump, which worried me a little since the car is quite old.  I didn't know if that much shaking might cause damage to the engine.  I felt relief when I finally reached paved road again.  I tried to think more on what I saw in Ponemah, and what lessons I can learn from accomplishing what I set out to do in that one day, but nothing significant came to me except that I might want to find someone to go with me on the next trip.  I was happy on that thought.  I turned up the volume on the car stereo, and started singing along ..."Mary is my bright red star..." 
Red Lake on tip of Ponemah

Friday, August 20, 2010

No Better Time

I've decided.  Tomorrow I am going to visit Ponemah, MN, the 34th poorest city in the United States of America.  According to the 2008 US Census, Ponemah has a median household income of $17,750.  The median household income in Minnesota is $57,288 - roughly a $39,000 difference.  Ponemah's per capita in 2008 was $5,546.  Fifty three percent of the population of Ponemah lives below the poverty level compared to the 7.9% statewide.  (US Census, 2008)  A majority of people living in Ponemah are Native American (97.7%).  Ponemah divided 50%/49% during the Kerry/Bush election of 2004, and 55%/44% during the Obama/Bush campaign (2010). 

Ponemah sits on 19.6 square miles of the most rural part of Beltrami County.  The town is on a stretch of land that hooks out into Red Lake. I believe it is a Native American Reservation.  The population is 965.  The crime rate is low. 

There are a few reasons I'm a bit nervous about the trip tomorrow.  The first is that I don't know if my twelve year old car will make the short five hours drive.  It has over 235k miles on it!  Secondly, I just don't know what to expect.  I have never been on or near a Native American reservation.  It doesn't help that I heard a story on MPR a year ago about how hard it is for tribal police officers to fend off crime.  I know, I'll be in my car the whole time, but it's still eerie.

My goal is to visit the top Ten Poorest places in the United States of America.  Yet, before I even start to make plans to visit the rest of the nation, I need to see the poorest place in Minnesota.  This is a test for myself to see if I will even go through with this project.

In all honesty, I am not sure why I want to do this.  I don't know what to expect.  I don't know what I'm looking for.  I have no purpose or agenda, but to simply see these places, and go on excellent road trips, even if it is solo. 

I will take pictures.  Keep a journal (this blog), and basically write/record everything I can.